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The seven hills of Amman are an enchanting mixture of
ancient and modern. Honking horns give way to the
beautiful call to prayer which echoes from the stately
minarets which grace the city. Gleaming white houses,
kabab stalls and cafés are interspersed with bustling
markets—known in Arabic as souqs—and the remains
of civilizations and ages long past. Sunset is perhaps
the best time to enjoy Amman, as the white buildings of
the city seem to glow in the fading warmth of the day.
The greatest charm of Amman, however, is found in
the hospitality of its residents. Visitors to Amman—and
the rest of Jordan, for that matter—are continually
surprised by the genuine warmth with which they are
greeted. "Welcome in Jordan" is a phrase visitors will
not soon forget.

Amman is built on seven hills, or jabals, each of which
more or less defines a neighborhood. Most jabals once
had a traffic circle, and although most of these have
now been replaced by traffic lights, Amman’s
geography is often described in reference to the eight
circles which form the spine of the city. First Circle is
located near downtown, and the series extends
westward through Eighth Circle.
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Amman The Capital of Jordan
Amman has served as the modern and ancient capital of Jordan. It is one of the
oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, with a 1994 excavation
uncovering homes and towers believed to have been built during the Stone
Age, circa 7000 BCE. There are many Biblical references to the city, which by
about 1200 BCE had become the Ammonite capital of Rabbath-Ammon. The
Ammonites fought numerous wars with Saul, David and others.

The history of Amman between the end of its Biblical references (around 585
BCE) and the time of the Ptolemies is unclear. We do know that the city was
renamed Philadelphia after the Ptolemaic ruler Philadelphus in the third century
BCE. After coming under Seleucid and Nabatean rule, Philadelphia was taken
by the Roman vassal King Herod in 30 BCE. The city became part of the
Decapolis League, a loose alliance of ten Roman-ruled cities including
Jerash,
Gadara (present-day Umm Qais), Pella,
Arbila (Irbid) and others. Under Roman
rule, Philadelphia was replanned and reconstructed in typically grand Roman
style with a colonnaded street, baths, an amphitheater and impressive public
buildings.

During the Byzantine period, Philadelphia was the seat of a Christian bishop,
and several expansive churches were built. The city declined somewhat during
the late Byzantine years, and was overrun by the Persian Sassanians in 614
CE. Their rule was  short-lived, however, collapsing before the Arabian armies
of Islam around the year 635. The name of the city then returned to its Semitic
origin of Ammon, or "Amman." It remained an important stop on the caravan
routes for many years, but eventually trade patterns shifted and dried up the
lifeblood of Amman. The city declined to little more than a provincial village for
many centuries.

Amman’s "modern" history began in the late 19th century, when the Ottomans
resettled a colony of Circassian emigrants there in 1878. Many of their
descendants still reside in Amman. During that time and the early decades of
the 20th century, the neighboring city of Salt was more important as a regional
administrative and political center. However, after the Great Arab Revolt
secured the state of Transjordan, Emir Abdullah bin al-Hussein made Amman
his capital in 1921.

Since then, the city has grown by leaps and bounds into a modern, thriving
metropolis of well over a million people. Amman’s growth has been driven
largely by political events in the region, and especially by the Arab-Israeli
conflict. After the wars of 1948 and 1967, successive waves of Palestinian
refugees ended up in Amman. Moreover, the city’s population was further
expanded by another wave of immigrants arriving from Iraq and Kuwait during
the 1990-91 Gulf Crisis.
History Of Amman;
Sights of interest;
Most of Amman’s noteworthy historical sites
are clustered in the downtown area, which
sits at the bottom of four of Amman’s seven
hills, or jabals. The ancient Citadel, which
towers above the city from atop Jabal al-Qala’
a, is a good place to begin a tour of the city.
The Citadel is the site of ancient Rabbath-
Ammon, and excavations here have revealed
numerous Roman, Byzantine and early
Islamic remains. The most impressive
building of the Citadel, known simply as al-
Qasr ("the Palace"), dates back to the Islamic
Umayyad period. Its exact function is unclear,
but it includes a monumental gateway, an
audience hall and four vaulted chambers. A
colonnaded street also runs through the
complex. To the north and northeast are the
ruins of Umayyad palace grounds.

Close to al-Qasr lie the remains of a small
Byzantine basilica. Corinthian columns mark
the site of the church, which is thought to
date from the sixth or seventh century CE.
About 100 meters south of the church is what
is thought to have been a temple of Hercules,
today also known as the Great Temple of
Amman. The temple was built in the reign of
the emperor Marcus Aurelius (161-180 CE),
and is currently under restoration.

Also on Citadel Hill, just northwest of the
Temple of Hercules, is the Jordan
Archeological Museum. This small museum
houses an excellent collection of antiquities
ranging from prehistoric times to the 15th
century. There is an exhibit of the Dead Sea
Scrolls, a copy of the Mesha Stele (see
Madaba section for explanation) and four
rare Iron Age sarcophagi. Museum hours are
08:30-17:00 daily. On Fridays and official
holidays the museum is open from 09:00-16:
00.
Downhill from the Citadel and five minutes walk east from downtown, the
Roman Theater is the most obvious and impressive relic of ancient
Philadelphia. The theater, which was built during the reign of Antonius
Pius (138-161 CE), is cut into the northern side of a hill that once served
as a necropolis—or graveyard. It is very similar in design to the
amphitheater at Jerash, and can accommodate 6000 spectators. The
theater is still used periodically for sporting and cultural events.

Two small museums are built into the foundations of the Roman theater.
The Jordan Folklore Museum is in the right wing of the theater and
displays a collection of items showing the traditional life of local people.
At the other end of the theater stage, the Museum of Popular Traditions
displays traditional Jordanian costumes, including fine embroidery and
beautiful antique jewelry. It also houses several sixth-century mosaics
from Madaba and Jerash.
Amman Roman Theater
To the northeast stands the small theater, or
Odeon, which is still being restored. Built at about
the same time as the Roman theater, this intimate
500-seat theater is used now as it was in Roman
times, for musical concerts. Archaeologists think
that the building was originally covered with a
wooden or temporary tent roof to shield
performers and audiences from the elements.
Heading southwest from the theater complex,
Philadelphia’s chief fountain, or Nymphaeum,
stands with its back to Quraysh Street. Much of
the fountain, which was completed in 191 CE, is
hidden from public view by private houses and
shops. The Nymphaeum is believed to have
contained a 600 square meter pool, three meters
deep, which was continuously refilled with fresh
water. Jordan’s Department of Antiquities is
currently excavating the Nymphaeum, and
ultimately hopes to restore the site to its original
structure by 2013.


From the Nymphaeum, the short stroll to the King
Hussein Mosque bustles with pedestrians, juice
stands and vendors. The area around the King
Hussein Mosque, also known as al-Husseini
Mosque, is the heart of modern downtown
Amman. The Ottoman-style mosque was rebuilt in
1924 on the site of an ancient mosque, probably
also the site of the cathedral of Philadelphia.
Between the al-Husseini Mosque and the Citadel
is Amman’s famous gold souq, which features row
after row of glittering gold treasures.